Fashion Week: everyday poetry

The breathtaking view from the Grand Foyer du Théâtre de Chaillot is known.A few meters away, tourists jostle themselves all year round on the Trocadéro esplanade, to take a picture with the Eiffel Tower in the background.However, Thursday morning, when, in the end of the friend parade, the curtains open and the public sees our iron lady appear, the magic operates.This Parisian label and some other independent brands have made the charm of everyday life and simple happiness their signatures.And it works.

Rien de spectaculaire dans la collection Ami pour l'automne-hiver 2019-2020? C'est vrai, mais là n'est pas le propos.In 2011, Alexandre Mattiussi launched his mark with an everyday dressing room, serene in terms of style and prices, intended for men who follow trends without doing too much.Great classics that reassure, from which you never get tired and that the Frenchman puts for the taste of the next cold in natural colors -rules, beige, camel, coffee au milk, chocolate, fir, flannel gray ... -, conveying an intangible chic.Volumes have the rigor of the formal and the reasonable ease of sportswear.In a word as in a hundred, it's elegant.On the podium (and in stores), more and more girls follow suit with these neat dandy, and never dressed.And we understand them.Some pieces are signed from the heart, a friend's logo for a few seasons.This symbol that we use to all of the social networks here resumes meaning.

Business and feelings never mix well. Vraiment? Depuis plus de trente ans, Dries Van Noten habille les hommes avec passion, transposant sa sensibilité et sa retenue flamandes dans ses collections.Like Alexandre Mattiussi, he distanced himself from the excess of cool.The season endeavors to breathe modern ease into the tailoring spirit.Blazers crossed in Whipcord softened fabric already throw away from afar.Large pants end up camping these silhouettes as sober as they are impeccable.The palette of very masculine drapery smells of tradition. Parfois, le designer belge les surteint de motifs tie & dye pour des manteaux.Or the paddles and the mattress for city parkas.Large belts, large pockets, slightly high sizes, suspenders and postman's bags crossing the bust recall clothes and business bags.Some fabrics in hallucinated jacquards deliver their touch of madness.The collection is of great homogeneity.Not spectacular, but sewn with charm.

Un même raffinement chez Yohji Yamamoto .The Japanese, whose unstructured style is the subject of tributes based on other podiums (and seduces the hip-hop scene with regard to rappers Chris Brown and Gunna assistant to his presentation), intervenes with new subtlety on his bigclassic.These are shaped in prince-of-colors and other sugar woolens whose graphics are almost only a memory.We also guess shadows of faces, Kanji writings.Large abstract embroidery with cut wires are placed, here or there.REDINGOTES cuts are highlighted with pimples, until excess, golden or tone on tone, in this black proposal from the first to the last passage.

Le casting de gars poivre et sel finit d'ancrer le propos de Junya Watanabe dans le réel.The Japanese has drawn this collection, called "Silver Swagger", "with men of its generation, or even older, in mind," said the note of intention.The clothes also seem to have already lived.The jeans are worn, rolled up and embellished with pieces of different fabrics like pumps.The designer updates his patchwork aesthetics by sewing parts of utility clothes to fragments of cold clothes and tovas of gentleman-farmer jacket, always with a refined efficiency.

Chez Ann Demeulemeester , les mannequins sont beaucoup plus jeunes.The troubled adolescence age was one of the creator's primary inspirations.His successor, the French Sébastien Meunier, respects this legacy while adding roughness.The offer is more varied than in the past.Fragile fabrics were tutoring large wool.Silk shirts, aerial tunics and sail t-shirts exceed winter Saharan in thick cloth, returned skin jackets and strong belt and wide collar coats.The meshes are twisted, discolored as if by accident.Just as in real life.

The heart of the profession

"This is my heart!"summarizes Davide Morello by presenting his second Davi season."What's the point of creating your brand if it is not to be free?"When you work for a large house (he made his classes at Armani and Gucci, then piloted the style of Boglioli, editor's note), we are constantly under the constraint.Here, my goal is not to be sold worldwide and earn a lot of money.I want to develop at my own pace, by creating clothes that I love and living with my passion.»»After a lovely first collection of shirts printed with brewed flowers, the Milanese extends his locker room to cotton surgery (always) flowery and cargo pants with large pockets.Pheasants and butterflies (the logo) have joined the garden patterns in flowering, inspired by childhood memories and a mother magazine mother."I see her leafing through them.I was captivated by these images of women so beautiful on glossy paper.From there was born my love of the profession.»»

It is with the same enthusiasm that Anthony Alvarez develops, in his shop-workshop in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, his OneCulture label since 2017.After Manila, Fez and Tokyo, this Franco-Philippin born in New York reclaims the city of Detroit.Large coast velvet tracksuits refer to the Motown record company, cargo pants at the golden age of the General Motors.Silk shirts take up the mapping of the city of Michigan.

Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats, young French behind Uniform, present their second collection on the sidelines of Fashion Week.From their obsession with utilitarian clothing (which gave the name to the brand), the duo imagined a cloakroom with delicacy.Color spots evoking the biodiversity of the forest, sophisticating the paletot of worker, the military vest and the blue of the gardener.

In almost Catimini, Martin Grant reveals to the initiates of his female fashion a man capsule worked from the same range of materials.Jackets and huts with measured proportions are encrusted with checkered woolen.The pants display an impeccable fall.It is the third season that he looks at men's fashion.The first two were a success: his approach as a discreet designer in an apartment seduced abroad.

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