An autumn in Seoul

À force de vanter la beauté du Québec à l'automne, on oublie parfoisqu'il n'est pas le seul à être aussi beau en cette saison. La Corée du Sud, pays de forêts et de montagnes, est tout aussi spectaculaire à visiter avant l'hiver. Récit.

The nature of a megalopolis

Hiking is one of the most practiced sports in Korea.And no need to go far from downtown Seoul to discover magnificent trails.

9 a.m..Even if he still displays a slightly sleepy mine - we watch out late, here - the Itaewon district, in the heart of Seoul, wakes up slowly.Men parade in Complet-Cravate (black, like cigarette pants)) and women, in delicate pumps;They are all in a hurry, a coffee in hand, as we see in New York or in Paris since, precisely, we can also buy here croissants from Gontran Cherrier, French Baker-star, or a large pumpkin latte, inA Starbucks that wants to be well chic.In short, we stand out at the bus stop with our walking boots and our backpack.

Aboard the 110b, a few students revise lessons, while most passengers have their eyes riveted on their giant format cell phone.The driver recovers the 1,500 wons (approximately $ 1.70)) that he is tied in small currency.Then he leaves and we drive for a long time, for a long time, more than an hour without ever seeing the start of the end of the Korean capital, more populated than New York or Tokyo with its 9.9 million inhabitants.The journey is not so long, when we consider that we will eventually arrive at the entrance to one of the most beautiful national parks in the whole country, covering an area of some 80 km2, or 35 timeslarger than that of Mont Royal in Montreal, and three times larger than the Oka Regional Park.

In doing so, over the stops, we will gradually see a few hikers climbing, men in their thirties, but above all couples of those called "elderly", but who seem more vigorous than many adolescents.They are dressed a bit like children, bright colors from head to foot, mountain clothes intended to face much more extreme conditions than this autumn morning."We like to dress as if we were going to face Everest, even for a little walk, it seems better," jokes Mi Jing Yang, a young tourist guide from Seoul.

Nevertheless, at the Bukhansan park, we are far from the small walk: we will rarely find as beautiful and large hikes to do in a metropolis as those offered here.The park, officially created a quarter of a century ago, houses three important peaks ranging from 800 m to 830 m (the total elevation is therefore around 630 m, against 590 for Mont Orford, for example)).We sneak between granite peaks, sharp, hostile.But the park also houses some treasures of human genius, including a fortress dating from the beginning of the 18th century (erected on foundations of the 2nd century)) formed by a wall of some 9 km connecting 15 defensive towers.

At the southern entrance to the park (which has four)), an information office normally welcomes tourists in English.As it was closed during our visit, we had to rely on the explanations of a park goalkeeper, at the entrance, and photograph with our precious cell phone a plan in Korean, a pencil pointing our different destinations.We thus followed, in the literal sense, the Korean proverb which says: "Even if you know the path, asks once again.»»

In October, the maple forest is slowly ignited to adopt a bright red, almost luminescent at the end of the month.Several hikes are offered, for all levels.One of the most popular made a loop towards the Baegundae, since Jeongneung.

The climb is pleasant and the view, upon arrival at the first healer, spectacular.Firstly because from there, we can see the three highest peaks of the park, but also a long portion of the wall, almost intact despite the passage of centuries.But in front, there is also Seoul who is looming, on the left and right, as far as the eye can see, ocean of housing towers and skyscrapers, often partly hidden at the start of the day by the mist or the smog, insummer.

It is the season of Persimon Kakis, sold per kilo at the entrance to the trails and in the convenience stores all around.Adolescents are sitting to eat them as they would swallow apples in Quebec, biting with the full teeth in orange flesh.By reaching out, we can hear the songs of the monks of one of the two temples still active in the park.There is the sound of a stream, too, which had taken care to protect inside the wall to ensure a constant supply of drinking water in the event of an attack, under the Joseon dynasty.But of city noise, there is no.Happiness.

Return to town

We will not find the cry of the horns only a few meters before arrival, after a three -hour hike loop.On the sidewalk, three men, the sixties well advanced at least, await the 110b which will bring us back to the city center, in the heart of Seoul, the hectic city, which never sleeps.We escaped its hubbub for a few hours, but without getting out of its borders or fleeing the Seoulians.A mountain crop bath before the crowd bath in restaurants and bars at nightfall.

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Part of the travel expenses of this report was paid by the Korean Tourist Office.

Seasonal treasures

There is the hike, of course, but enjoying the fall in Seoul, it is also...

Discover a secret garden

Modern megalopolis, Seoul also has impressive historical vestiges, including five large palaces.Which one to choose?In autumn, it goes without saying: that of Changdeokgung. Parce que c'est l'un des plus jolis (inscrit au patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO)), mais surtout parce qu'on peut y explorer un «jardin secret»» (le Biwon)) qui n'est jamais aussi beau qu'en cette saison.And for good reason: it is not so much planted with flowers as trees which are tinged with orange, red and yellow when the first cold.Be aware that it is imperative to book a guided tour to access it;Several are offered in English every day.

Have coffee

A Korean saying wants the country to be covered with 70 % mountains and... à 30 % de cafés! Have coffee à Séoul, ce n'est donc pas un geste si banal, pour le touriste, c'est aussi un bain de culture quasi obligé.And a great pleasure, because even if several channels - including Americans, such as Starbucks - are very present, we are above all dealing with independent shops that have raised the profession of barista to the rank of art, where the coffee infused and cold andOriginal grains are commonplace.Among the favorites, we retain the roasting with Noah's coal, which offers in bonus of delicate French pastries (madeleines, financial, etc..)).

Eat at the monks

Korea allows you to immerse yourself in Buddhist culture by opening to visitors the doors of around thirty temples where foreigners can stay while participating in daily activities.In Seoul, if not living with the monks, you can eat at their table, excellent in addition: the Balwoo Gongyang restaurant even received a Michelin star in 2017!There is a vegan cuisine of an exquisite delicacy which manifests itself both in the presentation and the flavors: a unique experience.Do not miss, then, to visit the Jogyesa temple, located just on the other side of the street: several festivities, fall, make it constantly flowered in this season.

Follow fashion

High place of luxury and excess - here, even the storefront of the Starbucks coffee is golden, and the establishment offers a valet service!-, Gangnam is a district not to be missed under any pretext, if only to better understand the contrasts - and contradictions - of Seoulian society.But in the fall, fans of fashion and trends will find their account even more, because the greatest creators present, in the window, their new collections and the currents to follow.Gucci, Prada, Chanel: we do not buy, but we are inspired before going to hunt in the more popular commercial arteries of Seoul - in Myeong Dong or Dongdaemun, where the shops are open 24 hours a day.

Test the new attraction

Seoul is a little proud of the opening of his new observatory last spring, in the monkfish tower, a 123-story skyscraper with a total height of 555 m (in the top 10 of the highest of the Globe))).The 117th floor is entirely glazed and would allow - in clear weather - to perceive the East Sea.A glass floor terrace has been fitted, the highest of the genre according to the Guinness Records book, for those who do not dizzy.Impressive, although dear.Nostalgic people will be able to return to the old observation tower, the N Tower, where couples come to promise an eternal love by hanging a padlock marked with a heart, like at the Pont Neuf de Paris.

Practical Seoul

Advice to plan his trip to the capital of South Korea.

Go

Korean Air and Air Canada ensure the connection between Montreal and Seoul daily, with stopover in Toronto, Vancouver or New York.Count at least 4 pm: yes, it's long.

Climate

Seoul's climate looks like that of Montreal, fall, a few additional degrees.We take a coat for the evenings, fresh, but the light is beautiful during the day, golden at will.

Sleep

Seoul is not lacking in hotels: the big international channels are there and we will easily find a room at a comparable price, even slightly cheaper than in Montreal.For a different experience, book one night in a hanok, a traditional Korean wooden house transformed into a pension, especially in the Bukchon and Insadong district.

Stay

Vast, vibrant, Seoul deserves a stay of at least four days to explore the different facets.We will easily move by train or by plane in the other regions of the country, not so large.Busan, the other city of importance of the country, located by the sea, is only two hours of fast train.

To eat

We eat well, very well in Korea: you have to try the bibimbap at all costs - a bowl of smoking rice embellished with vegetables and meat or tofu - and taste the kimchi, emblematic puts if there is one, classified in theUNESCO cultural heritage list.November is the ideal month to taste it, since the national holiday is celebrated.